Sailing Afrikii

Komodo National Park

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We arrived in the port of Labuan Bajo, the main town near the Komodo National Park. The kids were arriving at this airport having made the 36h trek from Canada for a 2 week visit.

The harbour is full of phinisi yatchs, live-aboard dive boats, that spend 6 months in Raja Ampat Nov-Apr and 6 months in Komodo the rest of the year.

Phinisis are handbuilt in Indonesia. In the last 20 years, they’re been repurposed for live-aboard dive boats for tourists. This allows tourists to dive to remote ares of Indonesia’s National Marine Parks. The build is still traditional. First a single tree is chosen, and its dimension determine the keel of the boat, and the rest falls into place. The whole boat is built from memory, without plans.
Wasai: Here a small phinisis is built at the side of the water. Once the outside is built, it’s launched into the water by a community effort of rolling it in on log-over-log, and the rest the work is completed at the dock (to minimize its weight for launch).

Komodo National Park sits on the volcanic shatter belt, a string of volcanic islands along the edge where two tectonic plates meet.

At this time of year, the islands are lush green, as the rainy season has just ended. Deer and wild boar pick along the beach, staying close to their young since the island is the home to the Komodo dragon, the largest lizard on the planet that is only found here. It’s hunting strategy is to ambush its prey with a burst of speed–and with one venomous bite that significantly tears the flesh, the venom prevents blood coagulation and drops the victim’s blood pressure. The dragon will then catch up with you later, once you collapse from hypovolemic shock.

Kai, Ryan and Aaryn visiting. We hiked up to a look out on Komodo island with our guide Rusde. We are covered up for sun protection and Sweating. Buckets. As we approached a path that was a bit overgrown, Rusde would whip the tall grass with a stick, in case there were snakes or small dragons. Smaller juvenile dragons usually hang out in and around the trees and bush, since biggest of dragons will eat them. When we came upon a teenage dragon in the middle of our path, Rushe stayed about 3 m back from him, swinging his large staff and making noises to get him to move along. It all seemed ridiculously risky but attacks on human’s “are rare”.
Ian was the only one of us brave enough to get close to a dragon, the ranger is taking the photo.

You come to Komodo to see a dragon but the majority of your time is spent in the water, diving in clipping current, with a whole tonne of fish.

It was so great having the kids visit. We sailed a loop around the islands of Sebayur, Komodo, and Padar, diving the north sites with names like Shotgun, Cauldron, and Castle Rock, known for their current that brings in large schools of fish.

A manta ray filter feeds on top of the reef, suspended in ripping current. Ryan points it out to us as we quickly drift by. This area called Manta Point, a manta cleaning station that hasn’t fully recovered from dynamite fishing ten years ago.
A manta ray flies by with team of fish on its back cleaning it for parasites.
Titan Trigger fish are the size of a serving tray. This time of year, you give them a wide berth in case they are guarding a nest nearby.
Usually pretty shy, the hawksbill turtle feeding on soft coral.

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    Tracy Gerster

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● About Us

Yo! It’s Ann and Ian on our 1984 Wauquiez Amphitrite. Photos & blog by Ann, keeping us afloat and moving forward by Ian.

● Of interest

The UN High Seas Treaty came into force Jan 17 2026 – we can have 30% of Oceans a marine park and have a well-regulated global fisheries. Lobby your government if they have not yet ratified it. Looking at you Canada!

Great podcast from Outside Magazine about military parajumper training in breath holding

See this story of Cook Islanders shipwrecked on Minerva Reef in 60s (film coming soon)

BBC Planet Earth: pack hunting – first documentation of snakes hunting the marine iguana in Galapagos

Book Rec’d: Christina Thompson The Sea People on ancient Polynesian Navigation (this is sooo good)